Alumlprep 33 is an acidic metal cleaner and conditioner expressly compounded for aluminium. Prepares aluminium and its alloys for painting or welding. Detailed Product Description: Alumiprep 33® is a non-flammable phosphoric acid-based cleaner, brightener. and pre-paint conditioner for aluminum. Alumiprep. CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMANCE INCLUDED Alumiprep 33® is a non- flammable phosphoric acid-based cleaner, brightener and pre-paint conditioner for.

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I ask them about preping and primeing when the metal has an alkalad surface.

Using Alumiprep 33 before Alodine –

I guess metal prep is a real sensitive area. After you rinse off the alumiprep, don’t let the part dry off.

It would seem to me that theres no need to worry about converting the metal where the alclad is in good shape. The alodine is really needed where there is no corrosion protection. Therin lies the variable of what each builder considers the best, most durable barrier for their airplane and it’s intened useage.

Alumiprep Metal Cleaner & Alodine Chrome Conversion Coating – Chief Aircraft Inc.

So why scrape it away and scuff it up just to replace it with an alclad generated coating? Don’t leave the part in the alodine too long. If the part is starting to turn dark, that’s too long. They said 2 reasons. I think it comes down to your individual plans for your specific aircraft. Some that are sheet metal specialist. Any one have almuniprep in using this cleaner, or can they recommend another cleaner and surface prep soluiont.


The alummiprep states not to use on high copper alloy aluminum. How are you guys disposing of your spent alumaprep and alodine? Who is online Users browsing this almuniprep You’re eating up metal at that point. Alclad is a top layer of pure aluminum applied to the for corrosion protection.

Listing: Alodine & Alumniprep

You cannot get the Alodine to work on without first treating with the Alumaprep If you consider the alclad durable enough, then by all means leave it alone! If you are doing small parts in a “bath”, remember that alodine aluumniprep not last forever. Then you have the temper number, ie. The reason I asked was to make sure my next statement or question wasnt based on incorrect data.

It will come out with a “chalky” tone too it. You will find that it takes longer to alumnipreep that even colour you are looking for. It is pretty much all I am doing. But the normally recomended cleaner is Alumiprep First to cover the scratches and the other is where 2 pieces of metal are put together mosture can get traped between the pieces.


I understand the religious debates, but there doesnt seem to be many “just clean it and dump it in alclad for a few minutes” believers out there. Only time will tell who is right.

The alumiprep leaves the aluminum bare, and it will oxidize as soon as the air hits it. These suggestions are purely based on my own years of trial and lots of error. It will turn out fine. They use prep 33 and alodine all the time. Don’t leave the part in the alumnipre; too long. Then they put a 2 part epoxy primer on. Nothing wrong with that as far as I know, but if you get it right, the part almost looks like allumniprep anodized.

Just follow the instructions for application.

This is the stuff alumbiprep primer wars. A few suggestions about it’s use: No registered users and 1 guest. Keep the part wet between alumiprep and alodine.

The question, why scuff up or “prep” alclad before treating it with alodine. I was thinking that there was some more technical reason that people were prepping the alclad.

This all depends upon your definition of “durable barrier” between substrate and environment.